Scottish Scouts Aconcagua 2000 Expedition

After 2 years of planning, training and fundraising, the Scottish Scouts’ Expedition to climb Aconcagua in the Argentinean Andes left Glasgow Airport on the 15^th of January. Arriving 2 days later at Mendoza we were met by members of the Leonardo Murialdo Scout Group who helped us, over the following days, to obtain our supplies and permits for our attempt on the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, at 22841ft/6960m.

 

After an overnight camp at Puente del Inca (9000ft) we hiked with full packs, in stifling heat, to the Confluencia Camp and set up camp by the river. We were treated to spectacular sunsets and the next day was an acclimatization day and we set off early to walk to the North Face to view the ferocious face that was soloed by Reinhold Messner, an awesome achievement. We returned to camp to prepare for the 14 mile trek to the Plaza de Mulas Base Camp up the Horcones river in an area known as the Colorado and famous for its red dusty terrain and the ‘Piedra Grande’ or big rock which offers the only shelter for miles. We left in the dark to minimize the effect of the heat but soon we were picking our way across the braided channels of the river in blistering heat. After a steep final effort we reached the Base Camp and set up and fell gratefully into sleeping bags. The next day was spent acclimatizing on the surrounding peaks ans generally recovering. We then started to ferry the food and equipment to our Camp1 at Nido de Condores (Condors nest) at 17600ft. After carrying high and sleeping low, 5 members of the team moved up to Camp1 passing members of the Argentine Army recovering the body of a climber who had died of Altitude Sickness higher up the mountain – a chilling reminder of the seriousness of our endeavour. Once camp 1 was established we started to ferry the equipment to Camp2 at 19000ft the Berlin Camp from where the summit bid would be launched. We were enduring some bad weather which was keeping us in our tents, but this relented and allowed us to move up as planned. We keep a close watch for signs of altitude sickness and two of the summit team were feeling the effects and returned to Base Camp to recover. They would later play a vital part in the summit bid. While the summit team were preparing Camp2 the rest of the team were climbing a nearby peak and getting to heights of 19000ft.

  

The summit was now at the Berlin Camp and had 2 days to summit, the first day was out of the question due to high winds and with time against them the decision was made to attempt the next day. With the weather deteriorating every evening the team left early in the morning in temperatures of -25°C and winds gusting to 60-70 mph. Climbing steadily past the Inepedencia Hut and traversing to the base of the Canaleta, a 1300ft, 35° slope filled with loose rocks and scree. At over 22000ft this was exhausting and slow work but at 14.55 local time Louise Moggach, Alan MacDonald and Kevin Mitchell stood on the summit, where a small aluminium cross marks the highest point.

 

After a quick photograph the team did not hang around but battled their way down to the Berlin Camp where they met Martin Butcher, Scott Brown, and expedition leader Kevin Lloyd who had climbed up from base camp to assist the summit team. James Quinn was also waiting at the Nido de Condores Camp to assist further down. The summit team slowly made their way down, exhausted but not carrying so much weight as the rest of the team were clearing the mountain as a second bid was not possible due to us running out if time.

 

The summit success was attributable in every way to the team effort needed to get 3 people to the summit and back safely – without the assistance of the other members the summit team would have had to spent a further night at 19000ft in a bad state – this illustrates how much of a team effort it had been. After 16 days on the mountain we made the long trek back and returned to Mendoza to meet our Scout friends and to spend a few days sightseeing and home hospitality. As a ‘thank-you’ to them we also helped the Group to re-activate their ambitious project to extend their Group Headquarters. After an emotional farewell and an open invitation for them to visit Scotland at any time, we returned home, not to rest but to start preparations for the 4^th expedition to Kilimanjaro! 

 

Many thanks must go to our sponsors without whom the expedition would not have been as well equipped, including Keela Scotland, TISO Ltd, North Cape Ltd, ARCO East Scotland, Tunnocks and also the groups, organizations and individuals who donated time and money to help make the expedition a success.

 

Scott Brown, Martin Butcher, Billy Fowler, Louise Moggach, James Quinn, Kerrie Robinson, Alan MacDonald, Kevin Lloyd, Kevin Mitchell, Alex Munnoch